Autumn can seem a very meaty time of year in the kitchen, all hearty stews and roast game, but it’s also mushroom season, when fields and markets are full of chanterelles and penny buns, puffballs and hen of the woods … so long as you know where to look and, more importantly, what to look for. This simple risotto, easily doubled, is a good way to make the most of even the most modest of harvests.
Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 2
20g dried porcini
½ onion or 2 shallots
30g parmesan
100g fresh chanterelles (or other mushrooms)
1.1 litres good chicken or vegetable stock
25g butter, plus 2 tbsp extra to finish
200g risotto rice – I like carnaroli, but the more widely available arborio or more niche vialone nano will also do
120ml white wine
1 garlic clove
A couple of parsley sprigs, to finish
1 Chop and change
This dish is very versatile. I used chanterelles, but almost any fresh mushrooms will do (in fact, it will be lovely made with just dried porcini alone). If you don’t have stock, soak the porcini in the same amount of hot water instead. You can use dry sherry or vermouth rather than wine. And for a vegan version, replace the butter with olive oil and the cheese with a sprinkle of nutritional yeast.
2 Prepare the base
Boil 150ml water and use this to soak the dried mushrooms for at least five minutes. Meanwhile, peel and finely chop the onion or shallots, grate the parmesan and trim and gently brush any dirt off the fresh mushrooms with a damp cloth. If you have large mushrooms, cut them into bite-sized pieces.
3 Get the stock ready
Bring the stock to a simmer, strain in the mushroom soaking water, and set aside the soaked mushrooms. Taste the stock: you’ll be reducing it further, so it shouldn’t be too salty to begin with – dilute with a little more water, if necessary, then leave on a low heat while you get on with the risotto.
4 Start the risotto
Melt the butter in a wide saucepan over a medium-low heat, and gently fry the chopped onion until soft – don’t let it colour. Tip in the rice and cook, stirring, until most of the grains are coated and translucent – this will take a few minutes.
5 Add stock and start stirring…
Turn up the heat under the pan slightly and, once it’s warmed back up, pour in the wine; it should sizzle as it hits the pan. Cook, stirring, until most of the liquid has evaporated, then start adding the stock one ladleful at a time, continuing to stir as you do so, and not adding the next ladle of stock until the pan is almost dry.
6 Repeat and stir some more
After about 10 minutes, stir in the soaked dried mushrooms. Keep adding stock and stirring until the rice is done to your liking – this should take another eight to 12 minutes, though exactly how long will depend on your tastes. In theory, the rice should still be firm, but not chalky in the middle; if you prefer it softer, however, that’s your prerogative.
7 Adjust the consistency
Once you’re happy with the texture of the rice, correct the consistency of the mixture; risotto shouldn’t sit on the plate like a solid lump, but flow across it like a wave, so add a little more stock, if need be, stirring until the rice is loose and creamy. Stir in most of the grated parmesan and a tablespoon of the extra butter, then cover the pan and leave to sit off the heat for five minutes.
8 Fry the fresh mushrooms
While the risotto is resting, finely chop or crush the garlic and melt the remaining tablespoon of butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the garlic for 30 seconds or so, before turning up the heat and adding the fresh mushrooms. Saute for a few minutes until they’re just starting to brown around the edges, then take off the heat.
9 A final flourish
Give the risotto a good stir and season to taste (it probably won’t need any more salt, because the parmesan has a fair bit already). Divide between plates or shallow bowls and top with the fried mushroom mixture. Roughly chop the parsley and sprinkle over the top, then finish with the remaining cheese and eat immediately.
